As in sat in a daze, my mind far too tired to think and my body aching from the long sojourn, I felt a grinding sensation and a sudden feeling as if all had stopped. My 30 hour journey from the "Burgh" to "Home" had finally ended. After the 6 hour halt in the fish market I like to call Bahrain, I felt an overwhelming flood of emotion and love pace through me. Love for a city which had given me 7 of my best years and emotion for the tirade of familiar faces I was to come across. I was finally in the land of Dairy Milks and Vada Paavs, of Paan-Walaas and Ayub's Rolls. Not to be distraught by the goof up by Gulf Air in delivering our bags on two different carriers, I bid my fellow travelers adieu with promises to meet in January and proceeded to the money exchange counter at the airport, eager to get my 980 odd rupees for the crisp 20 dollar note in my hand and ferry a taxi home. Maybe I shouldn't be shocked, but it definitely was a taste of things to come when he gave me Rs 850, quoting a mind numbing 42.5 dollar-rupee exchange. And here I was thinking, hey Rs 50, maybe my buck is worth something here! Promising to report this gross violation of monetary policy to every authority from the airport manager to the finance minister, I got in my cab and set out on my 45 minute trip home.
To tell you the truth, it felt good. That smell of Mumbai, the sight of people on their way to work at 7 in the morning, that never dying spirit came back to me in a flash. And then there was the ever present smog which hovered over my city, something people had to battle with everyday. No it didn't irritate me, but it made me wonder, where we were headed. All these promises of a Shanghai and a Singapore and we were still left with half dug up flyovers and nasty spine jerking potholes. As the taxi drove past Siddhivinayak in Dadar, I felt a surge of devotion. The numerous hours spent on Tuesdays, in line with other devotees, eager to pay their respect to this holiest of gods, beginner of all things pure. And I promise you, the police embankments and heavy artillery on display around the temple did little to squelch my desire to return to those blessed steps. The taxi took a turn into the under-belly of Dadar. As if by magic I was in Prabhadevi, an area close to Dadar station. And as we drove past the Sinhals and Vidyalankars of the area, I felt nostalgia hit me harder. I reminisced the countless hours I spent in those very classes, after goofing off semesters worth of college. The early morning 7 o'clock batch, the mind numbing 6 hour mechanics lectures and oh the day long last minute revision classes. And then I saw him, the sandwich walaa, who had hordes of students flocking to him during those precious 15 minute breaks. I can swear me and my friends must have put his children through school with all the toast sandwich we relished and shared. And the sabzi mandi which co-habited the area was rife with the smell of fresh veggies and nose stinging chilies. I remembered the rains, and walking through the mush, jeans rolled up, balancing self and bag against every tokri walaa occupying the road. I'd never dream of doing it again, but then again, I'd never change that experience for the world.
As we passed Breach Candy, the smell and taste of delicious Amarson's Right Place sandwiches inundated my senses. The many sandwiches I shared with my Mom and brother reminded me of what’s best about this city. A mish mash of various disparate individuals, held together by this cheese of live, and squashed together by these loaves we call the fast times of Mumbai. Add a little chutney and sauce and you have the quintessential Mumbaikar. About 15 minutes from my final destination, I reached Chowpatty and the beautiful and elegant queen's necklace which, thanks to the time of day was not glowing resplendent in its usual golden shimmer. Marine drive was our regular hook-up point. I can remember countless times that me and many of my closest friends have walked down and talked and dreamt of not only better times, but enjoyed each others company thinking of the memories. Lying down on the parapet and staring into the sky, enjoying the cool breeze, discussing what future had in store for us, it was all like a dream. And now everyone was away, in different countries and lands, some busy with work and some with life and I thought, when would we have those days again, if ever. And I promised to myself that I'd be back, if only alone, as a testament to the good times, no, as a testament to the great times. And as the cab took a turn onto Madame Cama road, and we drove past the Mantralay, I felt a pit like feeling at the bottom of my stomach. This time the memories that streamed past were not pleasant. Living with grand parents and being 14-21 years of age, I had many an encounter with the bureau-crazy oops bureaucracy we read about in news paper reports and hear about from friends and family. From ration card offices to IT offices, from corrupt high court lawyers to Mumbai University peons, I had dealt with them all. Call me a hypocrite for using them when I had the need and cursing them now, but the experience was anything but pleasant. I remember sitting, waiting for the B.E.S.T. section manager for 6 hours, missing work and finally realizing I had to do it all again the next day. Again I ask, where is this country headed. But let's leave all that for another post, I promise to talk about in the weeks to come.
And then my cab pulled into the lane beneath my building. But lo and behold, it was blocked. The recent terror attacks had left the city reeling and as an aftermath, President Hotel, which also shared the lane beneath my building, was closed for spot checks. Not that I was complaining. Better late then never they always say. As my taxi cab pulled into the building and I lugged my suitcases towards the lift, I looked forward to noticing the familiar face of Raju the liftman who had greeted me every morning, or rather afternoon, on my way to college. But I was met with some other non-descript face, who gave me the regular salaam and here I was, hoping for a handshake, maybe even a hug. I consoled myself blaming the new management and tried to forget. And as my Dadi opened my front door and as I touched her feet and hugged her frail body, my fatigue seemed to disappear and after staying up for 4 nights straight, I could easily go another 4. After being pampered, fed with dream like Kanjiwadas (A Marwari delicacy) and running hither and thither for that evasive American to Indian pin converter, wear got the better of me and I crashed on my familiar bed, dreaming away of friends and love and of the so very clichéd, better times. :)
Fast forward to 30 hours hence and I left for the airport in yet another taxi, a good 5 hours before my 10 pm flight. And then it happened. Maybe I should've expected it, heck I should've probably even been used to it. But the 3 hours it took for me to travel those 15 kilometers seemed like an eternity. The stop-go traffic, the smoke and grit, the endless vendors selling items as varied as miniature Santa Clauses to the common man's mungfali, it all reflected the various faces of Mumbai. The posh BMWs and Mercedes and the much maligned auto-rickshaw walaas blasting away their Himesh wannabe tape decks, we were all stuck in it together. Traffic signals and road lanes were long forgotten. Bike-walaas careening through every nook and cranny were far ahead of the pack, while I sat and envied them, hoping I wouldn't miss my non-refundable, very expensive flight to my second home. All the while, I had my laptop open, going over some last minute schoolwork, trying to finish up for a deadline which was fast approaching. The fact it was an Acer which heated up nicely for a city as cold as Pittsburgh, didn't help in the heat of this Mumbai taxi. Somehow, and I commend the taxi-driver for this, we too careened and swiveled and danced with the other cars to eventually get to Mumbai Airport which as much else in Mumbai, was in a state of disarray from all the perpetual renovation and general chaos surrounding the area.
Enter CSIA (Chattrapati Shivaji International Airport for the non-Mumbaikars) and I was amazed. It looked like any other major international airport. The renovation was on in full swing but it actually looked like people cared. It looked professional even bordered on posh. But that’s where it stopped, the looks. The administration and actual people working there reeked of the typical government type stench. Maybe it was the crazy renovation in process or maybe it was just my 3 hour long cab drive that tainted my outlook. Maybe they were actually trying. After 4 security checks which seemed a bit much and utterly chaotic, I entered the very nicely done departure lounge. Every major eatery from Pizza Hut and KFC to CCD was to be found. To my misfortune, I chanced to ask the price of a slice of Pizza. Again I shouldn't have been shocked by the Rs 100 price tag I was quoted. Suppressing feelings I'd rather not discuss here, I boarded the plane. The silliest part was actually having my boarding card checked 5 times, for 5 different things, by 5 different people, all one after the other. I understand security but that’s plain crazy!
An interesting 2.5 hours and lovely Kadhai Paneer later, I landed in Seeb International Airport, Muscat. My second home as I've told many. Meeting my parents and hugging them harder than Giant Sequoia tree huggers, for the second time in less than 48 hours, I felt that similar sensation of coming home. Home to a place where you were loved and cared for. Home to a place you could identify with things familiar and old. Home where towels were automatically hung and food was placed magically on the table. The next 3 weeks were to be special, 21 days of lying back, relaxing, not worrying about running around meeting people or shopping frantically. My own little paradise.
And as I close, I'm reminded of Joe Crocker’s famous Beatles cover, from the Wonder Years. Many of us have grown up singing along as Kevin Arnold experienced the best and worst times of his life and looked onwards to promises of a better future and of better times and I can all but reflect and look back on my own journey and then look forward to what lies ahead....
What would you think if I sang out of tune,
Would you stand up and walk out on me?
Lend me your ears and I'll sing you a song
And I'll try not to sing out of key.
Mm, I get high with a little help from my friends
Mm, gonna try with a little help from my friends